One piece umbrella dress is one of the most easiest dresses to make if you're running low on time. Unlike the two piece dresses, that require you to make the top part and skirt part separately, one piece does both the work in a single go thus saving your time and effort. Umbrella dress works with almost all fabrics.

Fabric required: 3 - 3and 1/2 (approx.)

Step 1:
 



Start by folding your fabric from left to right (along dotted line) as shown.

Step 2:


Now we have a folded fabric with two layers of cloth. Then, fold it diagonally (along dotted line) such that the corner gets folded to form a triangle. Here, I have used a 45'' wide cloth thus, I'll get 45'' sides on the triangle.

Step 3:


Once we have folded it completely, it'll look something like the picture above. Here, the triangle part has 4 layers since we have folded it diagonally while the rectangular part remains with 2 layers as the fabric is not wide enough to cover that area.

Step 4:

 
If you are tracing an already stitched dress for the body measurements then fold the "measurement" dress through centre and place it diagonally along the hypotenuse (as it is mathematically called ;) ) If you have any difficulty follow the figure.

The dotted part is the "measurement" dress as you can see in the figure. Now, from the curving point C of your waist, draw a straight line towards the hypotenuse and mark it D. From this point, take your measuring tape and measure the desired length 'x' you need the skirt portion to be and let that be B. From C, draw a straight line measuring the same length as 'x' parallel to the side of the triangle and mark it A. And don't be afraid if it extends beyond the 4 layers triangle and enters the 2 layers rectangle because that's exactly what we want. Now, draw a curved line joining A and B.

Now, we have a traced figure that looks similar to the thick black line (which looks like dress) in the figure. Before we cut it out we need to remember that we have the shaded part which falls under 2 layers only so cut out another two layers of the same shaded part so that we can later join them to form the complete dress. This extra 2 layers can be cut out from the left overs of the same fabric ie..., from the rectangular side but remember that we need fabric for the sleeves too so cut them accordingly. While we cut the extra 2 layers be sure to leave seam allowance on all sides as we need to join them on the incomplete dress to form the complete one.

Once we have cut that out, cut the traced dress with seam allowance. Now sew them accordingly and don't forget to sew the extra pieces on the sides to complete your umbrella dress.

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Piping is an interesting way of adding detail onto your dress. This small element can make your dress look from boring to something, which seems like we have put a lot of effort into (when the truth is that we haven't).
The thing about piping is that we can make it using any fabric. You can use the same fabric as your dress or you can use a vivid and contrasting colour to highlight your dress.
If you want to know how to make your own piping click here.

Sewing piping is as simple as making it. A perfectly sewn piping is all about understanding how piping works.



This simple figure can teach you everything you need to know about piping.
If you're sewing piping in an L shape or square shape then you need to trim the corners to reduce bulk. If you don't do this then you'll end up with an uneven ugly piping. Similarly, if you're going for a curve be sure to V trim the seam allowance along the curve as shown in the picture to reduce bulk.

Sewing piping is the easiest thing to do.
Keep the right sides of the fabric together and sandwich a piping in between them as shown.



Pin in place and sew along and you're done.



Now you're ready to style it in anyway you like.


If you feel like I've missed anything, please do leave them in the comments. Please follow me if you like my blog and enjoy The Sew Show.





Piping is an interesting way of adding detail onto your dress. This small element can make your dress look from boring to something, which seems like we have put a lot of effort into (when the truth is that we haven't).
The thing about piping is that we can make it using any fabric. You can use the same fabric as your dress or you can use a vivid and contrasting colour to highlight your dress.

To make a piping all you need is:


Piping cord, Zipper Foot or Cording Foot and Fabric.

1. Cut the fabric in a rectangle and place the piping cord n the middle along the length and fold it.



2. Sew along the side using a Zipper Foot or Piping Foot as shown in the pictue. I used Zipper Foot.





3. After sewing it'll look something like this.



Your piping is all set to be used for your dress.




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Placket is essential when you are going for mandarin collar. Plackets tend to look more attractive if you use the same fabric you are using for collar. It adds a continuous effect ;going from neck to collar. Plackets always need to be sturdy so either you have to use moderately thick fabric or you can use thin fabric with a lining. I'm going for the later so let's get started.

Before you begin placket, you need to slit all the way down till where you want the placket to end. See image :


Take the measurements ;the length of placket. The placket pieces must be cut out according to your desired length while the width should be 2 inches if you want 1/2 inch as the placket width (the remaining 1 and 1/2 inch will end up in folding)
*In these pictures I have already done first placket*







After that keep the lining on the fabric piece and pin it on the placket slit with the right sides together as shown in the pic.



 Be sure to note that the placket piece is kept such a way that the sides are together.



 Now sew through the first 1/2 inch.





 Fold over to the wrong side and sew as shown.









In a similar way sew the other placket. Now turn to the wrong side of the fabric and you will see their crossing point at the end of the placket slit.

 
Keep the triangular portion towards the wrong side such that once you flip the placket crossing it should look something like this.



Turn to the right side of the fabric and sew the placket as shown.




Now, sew the edge of the placket to make it sturdy and attractive.



Stitch the placket opening if the placket is too deep in its slit. There you have a lovely placket.

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One of the main reason I decided to sew an earphone case was when I saw the condition of my ear buddies. Since they were put directly in my bag, the wires were almost at the point of breaking. This post will help you make a trapezium shaped case. To be honest, I really wanted to make a triangular one but only till halfway I realised that the earphones will hardly fit inside because I took the triangle size (3.5 inch) too short. They all say you learn from your mistakes so if you're going to try the triangle design then be sure to take at least 5inch. If you're going for the trapezium one then follow the steps. Before you 'follow the steps' let me remind you that you can make your case with any design just be sure to secure the opening with a button or zip.

 
Cut out an equilateral triangle out of paper taking 5 inch for the sides. Using this piece as a guide cut out 4 triangles out of fabric. Don't forget to leave some space around the triangle for seam allowance.



Now sew each of the dotted line to the adjacent dotted line keeping the paper triangle as a guide and trim the excess seam allowance.








Once you complete the three pairs of dotted lines you'll get something like this.



Now sew the ends and sides.



Once you finish that it look far clean and better than before.



Now cut out a lining piece with seam allowance as shown.



Sew the seam allowance by folding the frayed edges.Sew the lining over the fabric.



Turn over the fabric such that it looks like a trapezium and also that the right sides of the fabric must be together. Now sew the sides (marked by the arrow in the pic) of the trapezium.



Now turn the fabric inside out.



Add the button and the buttonhole.





There you have it. Trapezium shaped earphone case. If all goes wrong you at least have a fancy name. I'm just joking of course. Hope you liked it.

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